Inseam-sewing machine



A. EPPLER INSEAM SEWING MACHINE Sept. 9,1924. 7 1,507,885

Original Filed Aug.- 18, 1919 2 Sheets-Sheet 1 Inventor Sept. 9 1924.1,507,885

' A. EPPLER INSEAM SEWING MACHINE Original Filed Aug. 18, 1919 2Sheets-Sheet 2 'L I ntar 14 1 mvwwc Patented Sept. 9, 1924.

' UNITED "STATES,

ANDREW EPPLER, on LYNN, MAssAoncsEr'rs, Assienonroourrnn snon MAOHIN-ERY CORPORATION, OF nnrnnsen, nnwqnnsny, n conronn'rron on NEW JERSEY.

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Application filed AugiistlS, 1919, Serial Noam 8,086. Renewed Nbvemher21, 1923.

To all 'whom it may concern:

Be it known that I, AN REW EPPLER, a citizen of the United States,residing at Lynn, in the county of Essex and State of Massachusetts,have invented certain new and useful Improvements in Inseam-SewingMachines; and I do hereby declare the following to be a full, clearfandexact tightened in sewing about pointedftoes than is practicable withthe constructions heretotore in common use. 'To'this end a" mul} tiplestep (preferably a two-step) feed s given to the shoe during each stitchforming cycle. With this form of feed the spread between the needle andthe channel guide while the needle is in the work need be butapproximately one-half the spread required by the usual single stepfeed, and consequently the shoe may be swung and'j manipin lated tobetter advantage and a'better dis-1' tribution' of the stitches'and atighterseam be secured in sewing about pointed toes, as will beapparentto those familiar with the conditions obtaining in sewing aboutsuch toes.

The invention is shown in the accompany ing drawings in which Fig. 1 isa front elevation showing so much of an1inseam sewing machine as isnecessary to illustrate the application of the preferred form of theinvention thereto; Fig. 2 is a side elevation of the same and Figs. 3-8are diagrammatic views indicating the mode of operation of the 'awl andchannel guide in feeding the work. p

In the drawings the invention is shown embodied in a welt and turnsewing machine having the general construction of the machine shown anddescribed in Patent No. 1,108,560, August 25, 1914. The machine isprovided with a curved hook needle 2, a looper 4;, a thread arm 6, anawl 8, a channel guide 10, a back gage 12 '(which in sewing welt shoesis in the form of awelt guidef 'anda back resttl l, all of which aresimilar,

in construction to the corresponding parts in the machine of the patentreferred to and all of which with the exception of the awl and channelguide are operated in the same manner.

patent toembody the present invention, the 'awl and channel guide are somounted and I Nr o nce. f

In modi'tying the' machine of the above operated that they give twofeeding move- :ments to the workbetween successive 'work plercingstrokes of the needle, each of which is one-half the length otthe stitchbeing sewed' The maximum spread between the needle anchcliaiiiiel guideisthere'fore'but approximately one halfthe spread required for the samelength of stitch with the prior single step" feed, thus permittingbetter 'dis- 'tribution of the stitches and thesewing of a tighter seamabout pointed toes; In the.

7 construction shown theawl carrier segment 15 is mounted upon a j-teedslide 16, similar to the feed; slide of. the. patent above re ferred toandiinou nted to slide in'a similar manneruponfixed studs 18 and 20.-The awl segment is oscillated as in the machine,

of the' above patent through "a lever mounted 'on the slide andconnected by I a link "24' with the awl' segment and by a pivot pin 26with the, cam operated lever 28 The slide 16 is reciprocated in theline. of feed 'by-a teed cam groove formed in the cam disk 30 andengaging a roll 32 carv ried bythe slide. The channel guide is securedupon acarrier; lever 34 which is mount.-

" ed to rock and to slide in the direction of the teed upon a stud 36secured in the feed slide v16. channel guide in and out by an arm 38secured to a rockshaft a0 and provided at its lowerendtwithatooth-engaging a tooth space on the endof the lever 34. The rock shaft40 is'operatedflthrougha cam lever 42 secured toftlie shaft and providedat its rear The lever; 84: is rocked to move the end with ajroll'engaging laicam groove 44 in the-disk 30.]The levergiisreciprocated in thelinefof iieed'by a canilever 46 the forward endof which is provided with a tooth space engaged tooth on the hub oflever 3,4,[and the rear end of which is provided with aroll as engaginga cam groove in the disk 30.

The mode of operation in giving the work a multiple step feed duringeach stitchforming cycle is indicated diagrammatically in Figs. 38.Assuming that the needle has withdrawn from the work during its backstroke, the awl and channel guide will be in engagement with the work ahalfstitch length from the last needle hole, as indicated in Fig. 3. Asthe needle completes its backward stroke the channel guide and awl moveforward'in the direction of feed and advance the work a half-stitchlengtlnas indicated in Fig. 4. The awl then remains in engagement withthe work while the channel guide is moved out and retracted or back fedand again moved'in to engage with the work, as indicated in Fig. 5. Theawl is then moved out to disengage the work and retracted or back fedand then engaged with the work, as indicated in Fig. (3. The awl andchannel guide then again advance in the direction of feed to advance thework a second half-stitch length, as indicated in Fig. 7. During thisfeed of the work the needle advances and as it enters the work the awlis retracted, the channel guide staying in while the needle completesits forward stroke and while the looper is acting. The channel guide isthen moved out and the awl and channel guide back feed and the channelguide goes in, as indicated in Fig. 8. As the needle is retracted theawl is moved forward into engagement with thework, as indicated in Fig.3, thus completing the cycle. The channel guide and awl thus gives thework two feeding steps of a half-stitch length each during eachstitch-forming cycle with the resulting advantages above set forth.

While it is preferred to employ the specitic construction andarrangement of parts shown and described in embodying the invention inthe machine of the patent re- :t'erred to, it will be understood thatthis construction and arrangement is not essential to the broaderfeatures of the invention and that it may be varied or modified as founddesirable or best suited to the construction and mode of operation ofthe machine in which it is to be embodied.

What is claimed is:

1. An inseam sewing machine having, in combination, stitch-formingmechanism, devices for guiding and intermittently feeding the shoe, andmechanism for actuating thefeeding devices to give a multiple step feedto the shoe in each stitch-forming cycle.

2. An inseam sewing machine having, in combination, stitch-formingmechanism, devices for guiding and intermittently feeding the shoe, andmechanism for actuating the feeding devices to give a two-step feed tothe shoe in each stitch-forming cycle.

combination, stitch-forming mechanism, a

channel guide, an awl, and mechanism for giving the awl and channelguide two halfstitch length feeding movements in each' stitch-formingcycle.

5. An inseam sewing machine having, in

combination, a needle, a channel guide, an

awl arranged to engage the channel, mechanism for moving the awl andchannel guide together in the direction of the feed and forindependently back-feeding them.

6. An inseam sewing machine having, in

a-wl, mechanism for giving the awl and channel guide twofeedingmovements between successive work piercing strokes of the needle and forback-feeding them successively. after the first of the said feedingmovements.

7. An inseam sewing, machine having, in combination, a needle, a channelguide, an awl, mechanism for giving the awl and channel guide twofeeding movements be tween successive work piercing strokes of theneedle and for back-feeding them after the second feeding movement whilethe needle is in the work and for back-feeding them successively betweenthe two feeding movements.

8. An inseam sewing machine having, in combination, stitch-formingmechanism, a

combination, a needle, a channel guide, an

channel guide, and mechanism forv giving the channel guide two forwardand return movements in the line of feed in each stitclr forming cycle.I

9. vAn inseam sewing machine having, in combination, stitch-formingmechanism, an

awl arranged to engage the channel and I mounted for movement in theline of feed, and a channel guide mounted for indepen dent movement inthe line of feed.

10. An inseam sewing machine having, in

I combination, a needle, a channel guide, an

awl in advance of the channel guide, mechanism for advancing the awl andchannel guide together in the direction of the feed a and for returningthem independently.

11. An inseam sewing machine having, in combination, a needle, a channelguide, mechanisms for actuating the needle and channel guide timed toback feed the channel guide less than a stitch length while the needleis in the work.

ANDREW EPPLER.

